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When assembling a roll of London’s finest dining spots, one might foresee familiar high-end venues. However, nestled high among these food titans is a modest salonu located in a outlying corner of north London.

A Surprise Recognition

This small Turkish eatery, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the metropolis by a influential food magazine. The accolade has left the proprietors utterly shocked.

“I am utterly shocked,” remarks the owner’s son, alluding to his parents’ relentless work that led to their modest place securing such a lofty spot on a notable 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

This little venue, which was a basic cafe before its change into a sought-after destination, has retained much of its former character. It accommodates just over 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking performance, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate place,” notes the owner.

A Namesake Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it’s focused on the cuisine, and this restaurant certainly excels. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a tender quality.

The meat is then added into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in slowly. As the flavourful mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to take in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is rolled tightly inside.

The wrap is usually eaten with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a mighty slap of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The respected food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is coated in less syrup than usual, giving it a deeper, more aromatic and less sickly flavour.

Rising Above the Titans

Interestingly, this modest spot has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the top of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant full for less than £25, equivalent tasting menus at top-tier establishments can run into many times that price.

The Ethos of Heart

It is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I do not believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is friendliness, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is shared by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he were in a role of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London train at this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the dangers of excess, and to show what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

A Path of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not train at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel really happy of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum would be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a social life but her friends would visit to help her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these roles forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

A Achievement for the Community

The restaurant’s success is set to echo beyond its own doors. “I believe many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the broader significance of this gastronomic achievement.